How to spot bridge lift and top bellying on an acoustic guitar

Think the top flexes when you press the strings? That’s your first red flag.

How do I tell if the bridge is lifting?

You can see bridge lift. Look closely where the bridge meets the top. If there is a tiny gap, or cracked finish right beside the bridge, the glue may be failing. Tap the area gently with a fingernail. A hollow or dull sound can mean the bridge is not fully glued down.

Check while the strings are under normal tension when possible. If you can, sight down the string line from the headstock toward the bridge. If the strings dip or bend oddly at the saddle, the bridge may be pulling the top out of shape.

What signs point to top bellying (a bulge on the soundboard)?

Top bellying is a slow bulge of the soundboard under the strings. Look for a visible hump between the bridge and the fingerboard. Run your hand gently over the top; your fingers will feel a soft rise. Many times the finish cracks in fine lines across the belly as it stretches. The guitar may buzz, lose low-end, or sound boxy when this happens.

Can I check these problems without loosening all the strings?

Yes. You can often spot both issues by lifting the strings at the neck with one hand and plucking the top with the other. That reduces tension a bit and makes the top’s shape easier to see. If you still want a clear look, loosen the strings one or two steps—just enough to remove pull but not so loose the neck shifts.

What tools or simple tests should I use before buying or taking it in for repair?

Bring a soft cloth, a small flashlight, and a guitar pick or thin ruler. Do these checks:

• Shine light at a low angle across the top to see any bulge or shrink lines.

• Press the lower bout lightly to feel for loose braces or a hollow spot.

• Look under the bridge area for cracks, gaps, or glue squeeze-out.

• Tap near the bridge and on the soundboard; note dull vs bright tones.

• Sight down the neck to check string line and saddle height.

Keep your hands clean and gentle. Don’t push hard on the soundboard; thin wood can crack if forced.

How serious are these problems and what are the usual fixes?

Bridge lift usually needs the bridge removed and reglued. That is a job for a luthier (stringed-instrument maker/repairer). They will clean old glue, clamp the bridge back, and sometimes add cleats (small wood pieces) under the bridge to re-enforce the top. Top bellying can be fixed by removing tension and patching or reinforcing the inside of the top. Some fixes are cosmetic; others restore tone and strength.

Micro-moment: You meet a seller at a cafe and bring the guitar. You sight down the neck, press the top lightly, and ask to loosen one or two strings. The seller agrees and you see the small ridge by the bridge clearly. You decide to offer less because the repair cost will be noticeable.

How much should repair cost and how does that affect what you pay?

Costs vary by wood, age, and shop skill. A simple regluing might be moderate. If braces are loose or the top needs a patch, expect higher cost. Vintage or high-end guitars can justify costly repairs because they keep value. For cheaper guitars, the repair can outweigh the instrument’s worth. Ask the shop for a written estimate before you commit to buying or repairing.

What red flags should make you walk away?

If the top shows wide open cracks, a bridge that lifts poorly at multiple points, or if the seller refuses any string loosening or photos of the inside, be cautious. Also watch for repaired areas that look messy or parts that don’t match in wood or finish. If the price doesn’t reflect the work needed, step back.

One slow pass across every fret can save you from a repair bill that kills the deal.

Today’s takeaway: If the bridge area shows gaps, cracks, or a bulge, test gently, get an estimate, and expect to pay for a luthier to make the guitar sound and hold together again.