How to spot a fake microphone before you buy it used

That shiny mic in a photo can hide a fake. One wrong test and you pay for noise, not sound.

Low-risk buys: common cheap mics under $100

If the price is low and the make is generic, assume wear and missing parts. Check the shell and the grill. Look for loose seams and cheap paint. If you can, power it and listen. Cheap fakes often hum, clip, or have no high end.

Medium-risk buys: name-brand looking mics at mid price

You may see the right label but that alone is not proof. Open the shock mount or unscrew the base if the seller allows. Look at the capsule area: real capsules have tight, even mesh and neat solder joints. Fake capsules often look crude, messy, or glued in place.

Negotiation levers

• Ask to hear the mic live or recorded samples you can trust

• Test with a known cable and a working interface or mixer

• Point out loose screws, uneven logos, or off-centre meshes to lower price

• Offer cash-on-the-spot if the mic checks out, but keep a short return window

• Suggest meeting at a place with power so you can test with gear

• Ask for original case, paperwork, and receipts; missing paperwork lowers value

• Use obvious cosmetic wear as a bargaining chip

High-risk buys: vintage or expensive studio mics

High-end and vintage mics attract skilled counterfeiters. Serial numbers, matching cases, and original paperwork matter here. Look for small details: font of the stamp, spacing on labels, and the finish on screws. If the seller claims repair history, ask for photos of the work. If possible, get the mic checked by a tech who can open it and inspect the electronics.

In the high-risk band, a proper test matters more than words. Ask for a clip of the mic recorded on a known interface. If the seller refuses testing, walk away.

Micro-moment: You meet a seller at a cafe with an on-the-go recorder. You plug the mic into a small field recorder you brought. You say one line into the mic and listen back right there to spot buzz or dropouts.

Simple hands-on checks you can do fast

Use these quick checks before you pay. Power the mic under phantom if it needs it and listen for hiss or loud hum. Wiggle the cable and connector to check for crackle. Tap the body gently and listen for loose bits. Flip switches and feel for firm stops; soft or sticky switches are a red flag. If you can remove the grille pin, look into the capsule: cleanliness and neat wiring are signs of care.

If you have access to a multimeter or a friendly tech, check continuity and DC bias on condenser mic pins. For dynamic mics, test frequency response with a phone speaker reading a steady tone; huge gaps or deadness at some pitches are suspicious.

Spotting fake paperwork and serials

A matching serial sticker alone is not proof. Search photos of verified examples on your phone and compare fonts and spacing. Ask the seller where they bought the mic originally. Receipts with store names and card last-four digits are stronger than a plain paper note. If the serial looks heavily printed or misaligned, treat it as a red flag.

If the seller claims a repair or mod, ask to see photos from the repair shop. Genuine shop receipts with part details are more convincing than vague notes.

Bottom line: pay attention, test before you hand over cash

Your risk goes down when you test, ask for proof, and use small bargaining tools. Cheap mics are easy to replace if you get a dud. High-end mics demand more verification and patience. If you feel rushed or pushed, step away.

Small fixes are normal. Structural problems are not — separate the two before you agree on price.

Today’s takeaway: Test the mic with your own gear, inspect the capsule and paperwork, and use small defects as bargaining tools before buying used.