Check this first: spotting bridge lift and top bellying on an acoustic guitar

Think the top of the guitar is fine? Many buyers miss early bridge lift.

What is bridge lift and why should you care?

Bridge lift is when the bridge pulls away from the soundboard. The soundboard is the top wood of the guitar. If the bridge lifts, strings lose proper pressure. That harms tone, playability, and value.

What are the simple signs you can see without tools?

Look at the bridge from the side and from above. Check for gaps or a dark line along the bridge base. Look at the bridge plate area inside through the soundhole for extra glue squeeze or cracks. Press lightly near the bridge while a string is tuned to pitch; a lifted bridge may flex oddly.

How do you test for top bellying (the top arching up)?

Tune the guitar to pitch first. Sight down the top from the soundhole to the tail end. A belly shows as a smooth convex curve near the bridge. Tap the top lightly; a belly can change the tap tone. Measure string action at the 12th fret; taller action than usual can mean a belly.

What tools help and how to use them?

You do not need fancy gear. Carry a ruler, a small bright light, and a capo or a spare string winder. Use the ruler to measure action at the 12th fret. Use the light to scan inside the body through the soundhole. A capo on the first fret plus fretting at the 14th lets you check relief and action differences.

What quick checks reveal whether repair is worth it?

Look for these things in one spot. If the bridge has a hairline gap but no split top, a glue lift can often be repaired. If the top has wide cracks radiating from the bridge or the bridge has torn wood, repairs get costly. Check fret condition and neck stability; these affect whether it’s worth fixing the top.

What are the key red flags to watch for?

• A visible gap under the bridge when viewed from the side

• A bouncy or hollow sound when you press near the bridge

• Large cracks or splits in the top wood near the bridge

• Severely raised action at the 12th fret compared to the nut

• Bridge glue squeeze-out or dark staining around the bridge base

• Multiple loose braces or detached brace edges seen through the soundhole

• A sharp dip or hump in the top when sighted from the soundhole

How much does repair usually cost and who pays?

Costs vary a lot. A simple glue re-seat can be modest. Plate replacement or cleating adds cost. Top crack repairs or replacing the bridge plate are pricier. When buying used, factor repair into your offer. If you are selling to a shop, expect them to lower an offer to cover the likely repair bill.

Micro-moment: You meet a seller who swears the guitar sounds fine. You tune it and press near the bridge while strumming. The top gives a dull thud and action feels high. That moment tells you more than a quick look.

What negotiation levers can you use after spotting issues?

If you find lift or bellying, ask whether the seller knows about past repairs. Show specific signs: a gap, loose glue, or a high action measurement. Use the visible problem to lower the price or walk away. If you still want the guitar, get a written estimate from a trusted tech and subtract that from your offer.

When should you walk away?

Walk away when the cost of repair approaches the instrument’s fair used value. Also walk away if the top has multiple structural problems or if the neck is unstable. If the seller hides issues or refuses basic checks, consider that a strong warning.

Small fixes are normal. Structural problems are not — separate the two before you agree on price.

Today’s takeaway: Spot small gaps and odd action early, measure at the 12th fret, and let visible bridge lift or a clear belly cut your offer by the expected repair cost.