Before you buy: a simple camera body check you can do in 10 minutes

You meet the seller at a cafe counter. They hand you the camera in a soft bag. The body looks clean, but you know looks can lie. You set it on the table and get ready to check it properly.

• Check the mount and contacts for scratches or dirt.

• Inspect the sensor visually with the lens off, using a bright background.

• Test the shutter across speeds and listen for odd clicks.

• Try autofocus with a lens and in live view if possible.

• Check battery life and whether the camera accepts a charged battery.

• Look for corrosion in the battery chamber and SD card slot.

• Verify the LCD, EVF, and all buttons work.

Quick physical walk-around

Start with the shell. Look for dents that bend the mount. Small scuffs are normal. Big dents near the lens mount can misalign the mount and affect focus. Make sure no screws are missing. Wiggle the mode dial and hot shoe; they should feel firm.

Mount, contacts, and lens fit

Put a lens on and off a few times. It should click cleanly into place. Check the metal mount for deep scratches or gouges. Look at the electronic contacts on both the lens and body; bright light helps. Dirty contacts can cause odd errors or loss of autofocus.

Sensor and mirror checks

If the body has a removable lens, remove it and tilt the camera so you can see down the lens opening toward a bright surface. Do not touch. Look for large dust chunks, oil spots, or scratches. Small dust is normal and easy to remove, but scratches or big oil marks cost money to fix.

Shutter and frame count

Ask to see the shutter fire. Take several shots at various speeds: 1/60, 1/250, 1/1000, and the bulb setting if available. Listen for even, sharp clicks. Rapid or wrong noises, or missed frames, are red flags. Also ask for the frame count (shutter actuations). Higher counts mean more wear. A mid-range body with a very high count should be cheaper.

Autofocus and exposure tests

Mount a lens and focus on a nearby subject, then a farther one. Try both single-point and continuous focus if the camera supports it. Take shots in both bright and dim light. Check that exposure changes correctly when you change aperture, shutter speed, or ISO. If autofocus hunts, stalls, or never locks, that needs repair.

Screen, viewfinder, and live view

Turn the camera on and inspect the rear screen and electronic viewfinder. Look for dead pixels, dark spots, or lines. Test live view shooting and touch functions if the camera has a touch screen. Buttons and quick-menu dials should respond without lag or sticking.

Ports, battery, and memory slot

Open the battery compartment and memory card slot. Check for corrosion, bending, or salt deposits. Ask to power the camera with a fully charged battery you bring or that the seller provides. A camera that won’t accept power or dies very fast can hide electrical issues.

Firmware, menus, and custom settings

Scroll through the camera menus. Reset to factory defaults if you can. Check the firmware version and that the camera accepts and saves changes. Weird menu entries or missing features can signal a prior heavy repair or firmware corruption.

Cosmetic issues that matter

Fine scratches on the body don’t affect pictures. But bent mounts, cracked flash housings, or broken door hinges do. Look closely at the hot shoe and flash contacts. If the camera has been dropped, there may be internal damage that shows up later in focus or metering problems.

Price and negotiation levers

Use what you find to haggle. Small dust or cosmetic wear is normal—price for function. Big issues like sticky buttons, high shutter count, or sensor damage should lower the price a lot. Offer to pay less for a known issue rather than guessing at repair costs.

Micro-moment: You ask the seller to power it up and insert a card. They hand over a charged battery. You fire off a few shots, check the images on the screen, and look through the viewfinder to test focus and framing.

Final quick checklist before you pay

If everything works, ask for the original receipt, extra batteries, and any original accessories. If the camera fails one major test, walk away or lower your offer. Trust your checks and the photos you just took.

If anything feels off, pause. Electronics that "mostly work" usually cost more than the discount.

Today’s takeaway: Do a fast, focused check for mount, shutter, AF, and power before you hand over money.