Do engravings or custom designs add value to gold, or is it just melt?

A woman set a small, scratched locket on the counter and told you she paid a fortune for the engraving. She asked if that handwriting or the tiny bird made it worth more than plain gold. You held the piece up to the light, checked the clasp, and smelled a faint perfume of old metal polish. The answer you give needs to be quick, honest, and useful at the counter.

• Scorecard: how to weigh an engraving vs. pure melt value (tick boxes you can use at the counter)

• Artwork clarity: clean, deep engraving + readable initials = +1

• Designer/signature: known maker or artist hallmarked = +2

• Condition: dents, heavy wear, missing stones = -2

• Metal purity: 10k/14k/18k stamp present? 10k scores lower than 18k

• Provenance: paperwork or photo showing commission date = +1

• Market demand: unusual motif collectors want = +2

Quick rule: most value is in the gold itself

You need a rule you can trust. For most small pieces, the metal is the main value. Pawnshops and refineries price by purity and weight. Expect rough market levels like $20–$40 per gram for common gold alloys (14k to 18k ranges) and offers that are often 55%–85% of melt depending on condition and local demand. That means a heavy, plain 14k chain will usually net more than a thin, elaborately engraved pendant of the same weight.

When an engraving actually adds cash

An engraving can add real money if it checks several boxes. If the piece is by a known maker, if the engraving is by a recognized artist, or if the design is rare and wanted by collectors, you can see a bonus. Typical premiums look like $50–$400 on top of melt for pieces with clear proof it’s yours or a collectible motif. If the engraving is modern but plain (initials, dates), the premium is minimal. A-1 Trade & Loan and other dealers pay extra only when there is verifiable demand.

What to look at physically (your quick checklist)

You are standing at the counter. Check these things in this order: hallmark stamps for karat, any artist signature, overall weight in grams, condition of the metal and setting, and whether stones are intact. If any stone is missing, subtract the repair or replacement cost. If the engraving covers the maker's mark or karat stamp, that lowers your bargaining position.

A real micro-moment: bargaining on a morning drop-off

You hand over a Victorian brooch with a tiny engraved crest. The buyer flips it, finds a faint 14k stamp, but no maker. The first offer is tied to melt. You mention family history and a photo of the original owner. The buyer checks the photo, calls a colleague, and raises the offer by $75 because the crest matches a known local society. That extra came from proof it’s yours, not the engraving itself.

Red flags that kill any extra premium

If the engraving hides damage, is crude or amateur, or if the piece has been heavily repaired, you won't get a collector's premium. Acid tests, resolder marks, or missing hallmarks are all signs the piece is treated as scrap. Also watch for modern re-engraving over older marks — that removes proof it’s yours and value.

How to decide whether to sell, pawn, or keep

Use the scorecard above to total the positives and negatives. If you score 3 or more positives and the piece weighs over 5 grams, try to sell it to a specialist or list it with clear photos. If you score 0–2 and the weight is under 5 grams, expect mostly melt. For quick cash, pawning at a trusted shop will get you a loan based on a percentage of expected resale or melt value—often 30%–60% of what the shop could sell it for.

What this means for you:

Stones can add value, but only when they’re verified — don’t let "maybe" inflate the number.

Today’s takeaway: engravings can add cash, but only when they prove maker, rarity, or demand — otherwise it's mostly melt.