What to check before buying a used electric guitar

Do not buy on looks alone. A cheap instrument can hide big repair bills.

Why a quick check saves you money

You can spot many problems in five minutes. That saves you from surprises later. Bring a soft case or a cloth so you can lift and inspect without scratching.

What to inspect first: the neck and fretboard

Look down the neck from the headstock to the body. It should be mostly straight. A slight bow is normal. A big twist or sudden kink is a red flag.

Press each string at the last fret and then at the first fret. If the strings buzz a lot, the neck might need work. Check frets for deep grooves or sharp fret ends. Run a finger along the edge of the fretboard. Sharp ends can cut your hand and cost money to dress.

Hardware and electronics to test next

Plug the guitar into an amp and play every pickup position. Turn all knobs and switch positions. Listen for crackles, dropouts, or dead coils. Tap pickups lightly with a small screwdriver tip while plugged in; each pickup should give a tapped sound.

Check the tuners by winding a string a few turns and tuning. Tuners should hold tension and not feel loose. Inspect the bridge and saddles for rust or broken parts. Look under the pickguard (if removable) for messy wiring or battery leaks.

• Check body for cracks, deep dings, or repaired breaks

• Inspect neck straightness and fret wear closely

• Plug in: test pickups, knobs, and switches for noise or cutouts

• Tune: see if tuners hold pitch and strings sit in saddles

• Look for rust, loose screws, and worn nut slots

• Test pickup tap and all pickup positions through an amp

• Ask about recent repairs, shielded wiring, or replaced parts

Micro-moment: You meet a seller at a parking lot. You plug your phone amp into the guitar and strum a few chords. The sound is thin and crackles when the seller bumps a knob; you politely walk away.

Wood, finish, and structural issues that matter

A finish crack that follows the grain might be just cosmetic. A deep split, especially around the neck joint or where the neck meets the body, is a serious repair. Check where hardware mounts to body and neck for enlarged screw holes. Warped neck joints and loose glue spots change playability.

Feel the body and neck where they meet. Any wobble or movement is bad. Open seams or bulges under the finish mean a shop job is likely needed.

Playability and setup basics to try

Play open chords and single-note lines up the neck. Check action (string height). If action is extremely high or low, ask if the guitar has been set up. A proper setup is a small fee, but big adjustments can be costly if the neck or bridge is damaged.

Try bending notes and watch for fret buzz or dead spots. See how the intonation holds: fret a note at the 12th fret and compare it to the open string octave. If it is way off, the bridge setup or saddles may need work.

Red flags and negotiation levers

A few things you can use to ask for a lower price: messy wiring, worn frets, nonworking electronics, loose tuners, a cracked headstock, or a neck joint issue. If the seller has recent receipts for a full setup or fret dress, that raises confidence and is worth paying more for. If the guitar needs fresh strings, factor that in.

If the instrument is a brand you like, ask about why it’s being sold. A good reason is not always required, but vague answers can be a warning sign.

Small fixes are normal. Structural problems are not — separate the two before you agree on price.

Today’s takeaway: Test it fully, play it, and walk if the electronics or neck look risky.