What to check before you buy a used microphone

You meet the seller at a café table. They hand you a mic in a soft pouch. It looks good at first glance. The capsule and grille are intact, but looks can fool you.

• Check the plug and cable fit for wiggle or corrosion.

• Listen to the mic with a simple recording on your phone.

• Tap the grille and listen for rattles or loose parts.

• Inspect the capsule area for dents or dents under the grille.

• Test the mic on the intended device (mixer, interface, camera).

• Ask about history: drops, moisture, repairs, or battery leaks.

• Check switches and pads for sticky or intermittent action.

Quick hands-on checks

Start with the outside. Look for heavy dents, chips, or crushed grille metal. A small dent can be cosmetic. A crushed grille can hide capsule damage. Run your finger around the switch and the connector. If anything feels loose, that often means internal wear.

Now plug it in. Use the cable the mic will normally use. Wiggle the jack gently. If the audio cuts or crackles, the connector or cable is the likely problem. That can be inexpensive to fix, but it costs time and money.

Sound test you can do on the spot

Record a short voice clip on your phone or on the seller's laptop. Use a consistent distance and speak in a normal voice. Listen back on headphones. Check for hiss, uneven volume, or odd metallic tones. You want clear sound without bursts of noise.

Micro-moment: Stand across a small table from the mic and talk for thirty seconds. Swap positions so the seller can sing or speak the same lines. Compare both recordings for dropouts, fuzz, or wobble in tone.

Electronics and mechanical checks

Try any switches: low-cut, pad, or pattern knobs. They should click cleanly and not make scratchy noises. For battery-powered mics, open the compartment and look for corrosion. Brown or white crust means a leak and possible circuit damage.

Check the XLR or mini-jack pins for bent or corroded contacts. Bent pins can sometimes be straightened but can break. Ask the seller if the mic has had any internal repairs. A simple repair history is okay. Hidden fixes can mean ongoing trouble.

What to ask the seller and why it matters

Ask about how the mic was used. Studio use is different from live stages. Mics used on stages often see drops and rough handling. Ask about storage: damp basements and hot cars can age foam and electronics. If the seller has receipts, that can show age and whether parts were replaced.

Ask if they have spare cables, clips, or shock mounts. A good clip or mount adds value. If they offer no stands or cables, expect to spend extra. Know the market: a cheap mic with many included extras can be a better deal than a pricey mic with nothing.

Negotiation levers and red flags

If the capsule rattles when lightly tapped, that’s a red flag. If recordings show intermittent crackles, price it down or walk away. Missing serial numbers or obvious DIY soldering under the grille are worth a discount. Leaky batteries, sticky switches, or bent pins are repair costs you should factor in.

If everything checks out, use accessories as negotiation points. If the seller has the original case, cable, or paperwork, that adds value. If not, ask for a lower price to cover expected replacements.

Small fixes are normal. Structural problems are not — separate the two before you agree on price.

Today’s takeaway: Test the mic with a real recording, inspect switches and connectors closely, and price in any fixes before you pay.