top of page

What to check before you buy a used electric guitar

  • Writer: Mark Kurkdjian
    Mark Kurkdjian
  • 7 days ago
  • 3 min read

Did you know a clean-looking guitar can hide costly problems? Many buyers focus on looks and miss the parts that matter.

Image for: What to check before you buy a used electric guitar

Myth vs fact: Neck wear means the guitar is junk

Myth: Heavy fret wear or a warped neck means the guitar is trash. Fact: Some neck work and fret dress is normal. A skilled tech can level frets, replace a nut, or adjust the truss rod for a modest cost. The real issue is when neck problems stop the guitar from staying in tune or make notes buzz at normal playing heights.

Myth vs fact: If it sounds thin unplugged, it’s bad

Myth: An unplugged guitar that sounds weak must have bad pickups. Fact: Acoustic tone off the strings says little about the electronics. Plug the guitar in and test with an amp. A low-cost pickup or loose wiring is fixable; a bad body or loose braces is not.

Myth vs fact: Scratches kill value

Myth: Any scratch or ding ruins the instrument’s worth. Fact: Cosmetic dings often don't affect play or tone. Unless the finish crack lets moisture into the wood or a break went unrepaired, small dings are mostly cosmetic. Know when marks are surface-only and when they hide repairs.

Myth vs fact: All wiring problems are cheap to fix

Myth: Loose pots or a crackling jack are quick, cheap fixes. Fact: Many wiring issues are easy. But if wiring has been hacked or poorly soldered, or if the pickup covers are potted poorly, repairs can add up. Ask to see the control cavity or have the seller lift the pickguard to inspect the wires.

Micro-moment

You meet the seller at a cafe and open the case at the table. You plug into a small practice amp and play a few chords and single notes. The A string buzzes only on the higher frets, but the amp sound is clear. That buzz tells you where to ask questions and where a tech might need to work.

Fast check before you pay

  • Look down the neck from the headstock to the body for straightness and twist.

  • Press each fret at the first and last fret of the neck to spot high or low frets.

  • Plug in and tap each pickup pole; listen for dead spots or noise.

  • Turn pots and toggle switches; listen for crackle or dropouts.

  • Check the bridge, saddles, and tuners for heavy corrosion or missing parts.

  • Open the control cavity if you can; look for cold solder joints or loose wires.

  • Try different pickup positions and listen for loud hum or grounding issues.

What to test, and how to judge it

Play open chords and single notes across the neck. Bend notes and listen for fret buzz or dead notes. Tune the guitar and check stability after heavy bends. If the guitar goes sharp or flat quickly, ask about the nut, tuner integrity, or whether the bridge is slipping.

Check electronics with the amp on and volume up. Move the cable in the jack to see if the connection cuts out. Flick the pickup selector and roll the tone and volume pots. Some slight scratch sounds on old pots can be normal; loud crackles when moving are a red flag.

Inspect the frets and fingerboard closely. Deep grooves in the frets mean a costly refret. Light wear can be dressed. Look for fret ends that stick out at the neck edge; that makes playing painful and means a fret level or refret is due.

Examine hardware and finish. Rusty screws or corroded saddles add replacement cost. Check headstock for cracks, especially around the tuner holes and where the neck meets the head. A repaired break can be solid if done well, but ask how it was fixed and by whom.

Reasonable haggling points

If the guitar needs a setup, a fret dress, new strings, or a wiring fix, estimate the repair cost before offering. Use repair estimates to lower the price. For common issues like sticky pots or a slightly rough fret, a fair discount is normal. If structural damage or major electronics surgery is needed, walk away or offer much less.

Final checks and buy-or-walk rules

If sound through an amp is clean, tuners hold, and the neck is straight, you have a good chance of a solid instrument. If the seller won't let you plug in, be wary. If the price already reflects repair needs and you can live with them, the deal can be okay.

If it won’t stay in tune through a short play test, assume there’s a reason and negotiate from that risk.

 

Today’s takeaway: Test plugged sound, neck straightness, and electronics fully before you hand over cash.

 
 
 

Comments


Featured Posts
Recent Posts
Archive
Search By Tags
Follow Us
  • Facebook Basic Square
  • Instagram Social Icon
  • Google Places - White Circle
  • A-1 Trade & Loan
  • Twitter - A1Trade
  • Facebook - White Circle
  • Yelp - White Circle
  • Pinterest
  • Threads

© 2018 A-1 Trade & Loan Ltd.

bottom of page