What to check before you buy a used acoustic guitar

Got a great-looking guitar at a great price — but should you buy it? That one small miss can cost you weeks of fixing and hundreds of dollars.

Myth vs fact: Condition equals playability

Myth: If the body has no cracks, the guitar is sound.

Fact: The top can be fine and the neck warped. A warped neck or loose braces can make the guitar buzz, go out of tune, or be hard to play. Look beyond finish cracks.

Myth vs fact: New strings mean no problems

Myth: New strings mean the guitar was well cared for.

Fact: New strings only hide some issues. They can mask fret wear and hide buzzing. Ask when the strings were changed and why.

Myth vs fact: Tuned notes prove setup is fine

Myth: If it tunes to pitch, the setup is good.

Fact: Tuning settles pitch but not action (string height) or intonation (notes in tune up the neck). A guitar can tune fine yet be painful to play or sound out of tune higher up the neck.

Myth vs fact: Brand name guarantees quality

Myth: A known name means the guitar is in good shape and worth the price.

Fact: Any brand can be mistreated. Cheap repairs or rough humidity cycles hurt wood and glue. Judge each instrument on condition, not label.

Myth vs fact: Cracks are always fatal

Myth: A crack on the top means the guitar is ruined.

Fact: Some cracks are repairable and useful to fix. Small, tight cracks near the bridge or edge can be glued and stabilized. Big open cracks or loose braces are costly to repair.

Micro-moment

You meet the seller in a quiet room. You tune the guitar and play an open G chord. The low E buzzes when you press the third fret. You swap hands, try light and hard plucking, and hear the buzz is louder louder near the soundhole.

Fast check before you pay

• Look down the neck from the headstock to the body for a straight line or a visible twist.

• Press each fret at the first and last fret to check for buzzing or dead spots.

• Check the bridge area for cracks, glued seams, or a lifted saddle.

• Measure the action: string clearance above the 12th fret should be comfortable for you.

• Inspect frets: deep grooves mean heavy wear and future repair.

• Tap the top and back with a fingernail to compare tone and check for loose braces.

• Smell the inside through the soundhole for mold or old glue odors.

How to test tone and playability

Play open chords and then play single notes up the neck. Move up the frets and listen for dead notes or odd ringing. Try strumming and fingerstyle. If the guitar thins out or buzzes in certain zones, point it out to the seller.

Check the saddle and nut for heavy wear. A slot worn deep can make strings sit too low and buzz. You can feel old grooves with a fingernail.

What to ask the seller and why it matters

Ask about humidity, storage, and any repairs. Wood shrinks and swells; humidity swings can lift glue joints or warp the neck. If the seller says it sat in a damp basement or in the back of a car, that is a red flag.

Ask if the neck was ever reset or if the top was repaired. Neck resets and top repairs can be fine, but they change value and future resale.

When a repair is worth it

Small fret dressing, a nut or saddle swap, and a clean setup are cheap fixes at a good shop. Major work like a neck reset or regluing a top can cost as much as a replacement instrument. Balance the cost of repair with the final sound and playability.

Negotiation levers you can use

If you find fret wear, a twisted neck, or a loose bridge, use those facts to lower the price. Offer to pay a bit less and factor in a setup fee. If the seller wants full price, walk away — better deals come along.

Final checks before handing over cash

Bring a tuner and a capo if you use one. Bring a small flashlight to inspect inside the soundhole and the bridge plate. Try the guitar through an amp if it has electronics to check pickup noise and battery life.

Small fixes are normal. Structural problems are not — separate the two before you agree on price.

Today’s takeaway: Inspect the neck, frets, bridge, and sound for real playability before you buy; small fixes are common, but major structural work should reduce the price or be a deal breaker.