What to check before buying a used electric guitar

Think you scored a steal? One overlooked problem can turn that deal into a headache fast.

What’s going on

Used guitars sell fast. Sellers may fix small things, or hide them. Your job is to find what matters before you pay. You can keep repairs small by checking a few key things in person.

Why it matters

A good used guitar can play and sound great for years. A bad one can need costly setup, parts, or even have structural damage. You want an instrument that holds tune, feels right, and won’t need major surgery in a week.

What to check (quick walk-through)

• Neck straightness and relief: look down the neck from headstock to body and press the strings at the first and last fret; the strings should clear the frets evenly.

• Frets and fretboard wear: check for deep grooves, rough edges, or uneven frets that buzz when played.

• Electronics: test all pickups, switches, pots (knobs) and the output jack for crackle or dropouts with an amp.

• Hardware: check tuners, bridge, saddles and strap buttons for rust, slop, or missing screws.

• Action and intonation: play at the 12th fret and check tuning; high action or bad intonation means a setup or parts.

• Body and neck seams: look for cracks, repaired breaks, or glue seepage along joins.

• Case and serial: ask about a gig bag or case and note the serial number for later reference.

Micro-moment

You meet the seller at day light. You plug the guitar into a small amp and play a few chords and a riff. The switch clicks and one pickup cuts out when you tap it. That tells you there’s a loose wire or dirty contact that needs fixing.

How to test playability and sound

Play open chords and single-note lines across the neck. Listen for dead spots where notes don’t ring. Bend strings and listen for buzzing or rattling. Turn each knob and flip switches slowly while the amp is on. A scratchy pot or intermittent pickup usually means cleaning or replacement.

Check tuning stability by bending strings and retuning. If tuners slip, they may need tightening or replacement. If the tremolo (whammy) doesn’t return to tune, the springs or setup may be wrong.

Red flags that should change the price or walk away

If you see any of these, demand a lower price or skip the buy:

Major neck warp or a separated neck joint. Deep fret wear that needs refretting. Hidden repairs with poor glue work or mismatched finish. Electronic faults that persist after cleaning. Severe rust on hardware or a broken bridge. Missing or non-original parts you don’t want to replace.

Negotiation levers and small fixes

Minor fret sprout, a noisy pot, stiff tuners, or a high action are all doable fixes. A basic setup by a tech is often inexpensive. Replacing tuners or pots is common and usually cheap. Refretting or fixing a neck crack is costly and raises risk.

When you point out a problem, offer a repair estimate and ask the seller to drop the price by that amount. If the seller refuses and the issue is significant, walk away.

Buying tips and final checklist

Bring these with you when you meet a seller: a cable, small amp or practice amp, a tuner, a flashlight, and a felt cloth to wipe the instrument. Ask for the seller’s reason for selling and any history of repairs. If something feels off, trust that instinct.

One slow pass across every fret can save you from a repair bill that kills the deal.

Today’s takeaway: Inspect neck, frets, electronics, and hardware closely and use repair estimates as negotiation tools.