What to check before buying a used electric guitar

A cheap guitar can hide a costly problem—what looks like a small ding can ruin playability.

What’s going on

You see a used electric guitar that looks good in photos. The price feels right. But photos lie. You need a short checklist to avoid a guitar that sounds or plays poorly.

Why it matters

A guitar with hidden trouble can cost as much to fix as buying a nicer used instrument. Bad necks, worn frets, and faulty electronics are common. Catching issues early saves time and money.

What to check in person

• Look down the neck from the headstock to the body for straightness and warps.

• Press each fret and play open strings to spot buzzing or dead frets.

• Check neck angle near the body and where the strings sit over the frets.

• Tap the body and listen for loose parts or rattles.

• Plug into an amp and test pickups, volume/tone pots, and the switch.

• Inspect the input jack for looseness or corrosion.

• Remove the back plate (if possible) and look for bad wiring or battery leaks.

Micro-moment

You meet the seller at a coffee shop parking lot. You bring a cable and a small amp or battery-powered practice amp. You plug in, play for a few minutes, and swap pickup settings to hear how each pickup behaves.

Red flags to walk away from

Cracks through the headstock or body that are unrepaired or poorly repaired often cause trouble later. Heavy fret wear that needs a refret is expensive. A neck that twists or has deep warps can be impossible to fix well. Electronics that cut out, crackle loudly, or require constant wiggling mean hidden work. If the seller refuses a quick plug-in test or won’t let you play the guitar, treat that as a red flag.

Simple tests and what they tell you

Play each string at the first and last fret. Buzzing at many frets usually points to a warped neck, improper nut or saddle height, or worn frets. Buzz only near the nut can mean a low nut slot; buzz only near the body suggests a low saddle or bridge problem. Move volume and tone knobs while plugged in. Crackles point to dirty pots. Switches that pop or cut out mean worn contacts. Tune the guitar and bend strings to see if it holds tune; stiff or rusted tuners are a minor fix, but missing bushings or stripped gears can be costly.

Negotiation levers and quick fixes

Minor cosmetic dings mean little for tone and can lower price. Offer to buy and fix small issues like a worn nut, new pickguard, or new strings—these are low cost. Ask for a lower price if the guitar needs a setup (adjusting string height, intonation, and truss rod). Factor in a full setup cost when you haggle. If electronics need work, ask for a partial discount equal to the repair estimate. If the seller is serious, they may prefer a quick honest price rather than hold onto the guitar.

Bottom line: a quick buying ritual

Carry a small testing kit: a cable, a small amp or battery amp, a tuner, and a capo or clip-on tuner. Spend 10–15 minutes doing the checks above. If the guitar passes, you likely bought a playable instrument. If it fails one big test—warped neck, major crack, or dead electronics—don’t feel bad walking away.

Small fixes are normal. Structural problems are not — separate the two before you agree on price.

Today’s takeaway: Check the neck, frets, and electronics with a real plug-in test before you hand over cash.