What to check before buying a used camera body: risk tiers and sharp checks

Did you buy a camera with a stuck shutter or cloudy sensor before? That shock is avoidable. Know the easy checks that catch most problems.

Low risk: cheap older bodies (what to expect)

Low-risk bodies are older entry-level cameras sold for parts or beginners. Expect wear on the grip, faded buttons, and a tired battery life. These often work but may need basic cleaning or a new battery. If price is very low, treat it as a parts buy.

Medium risk: popular mid-range bodies (what to check closely)

These are the bodies people swap often. They can be great value. But they hide moderate issues like sticky buttons, light meter errors, or intermittent autofocus. Check these items before you hand over cash:

• Shutter count (how many shots the camera has taken)

• Sensor condition (look for dust, scratches, or spots in photos)

• Autofocus and mirror movement (listen and watch for smooth action)

• All ports and battery door (try a cable and insert/remove battery)

• Flash sync and hot shoe fit (mount a flash or accessory)

• LCD screen and viewfinder clarity (no big dead pixels or fog)

• Mode dial and buttons (rotate and press every switch)

High risk: higher-end or new-ish bodies (what to test thoroughly)

High-end bodies cost more and so do repairs. Small hidden faults hurt resale and shooting. Treat these like a used car. Check the shutter, sensor, and focus across modes. Ask for original box, receipts, or service history. Confirm warranty status if any. If the camera was used heavily with pro lenses, expect more wear on the lens mount and the mirror box.

Micro-moment: You meet the seller at a café. You power the camera on, mount a lens, and take ten shots in different lighting. You scroll images and zoom to 100% to inspect the sensor and focus. If anything looks odd, pause and ask for time to test more.

How to run the quick tests (fast and repeatable)

Start with power and basic function. Put a charged battery in and power on. Mount a lens and set the camera to aperture-priority or manual mode. Take still shots and move through shutter speeds and apertures. Shoot a plain white wall and a textured scene. Check the images on a laptop or zoomed-in LCD.

Shutter count: ask for it. Many shops and apps can tell you the number. High counts mean more wear. Sensor health: take a photo of the sky or a plain white sheet at small aperture. Spots that don’t move are sensor dust or damage. Autofocus: point at a face or a textured object and half-press the shutter. Try continuous focus and single-shot focus.

Look and feel: inspect the mount for play and the bayonet tabs for wear. Wiggle the lens on the mount; any looseness or clicking is a sign of heavy use or damage. Check the tripod socket and battery door for cracks.

Red flags and negotiation levers

Sticky or unresponsive buttons. High shutter count with no recent servicing. Sensor marks that don't clear in photos. Rattling sounds when you move the body. Damaged lens mount, loose fit, or bent tabs. Corrosion inside battery compartment or ports. Missing or cracked hot shoe or wobbling dials.

Use these as negotiation levers: ask for a lower price, a short return window, or to include a spare battery. If the seller refuses tests or to let you inspect, walk away.

Quick checklist before you buy (final walk-through)

Power up the camera with a charged battery. Mount a lens and shoot varied scenes. Check images at 100% on the LCD or laptop. Run autofocus tests and listen to the shutter. Physically inspect the mount, door, and ports. Ask about shutter count and service history. Get a short return promise if you can.

If anything feels off, pause. Electronics that "mostly work" usually cost more than the discount.

Today’s takeaway: Always test a used camera body with a lens mounted, shoot varied scenes, and use detected faults as negotiation levers.