How to tell if a used guitar has neck or fret issues

You pick up a guitar and something feels off. How do you know if the neck or frets need work?

What a healthy neck looks like

A healthy neck is straight with a tiny bow called relief (a small curve to let strings vibrate). Frets sit level and don't buzz when you press strings. The action (string height) feels even up the neck. If one thing is wrong, it can be an easy fix. If several things are wrong, repairs add up.

Quick hands-on checks you can do now

• Sight down the neck from the headstock to the body to spot warps or twists

• Press a string at the first and last fret to check for high spots (open string then fret)

• Play each fret up the neck to listen for buzzing or dead notes

• Check fret ends for sharp edges and loose frets that move a little

• Look at the nut and saddle for deep grooves or heavy wear

How to interpret those checks

Sight test: If the neck visibly bows sideways or has a kink, that’s a big flag. A small forward or back curve can often be fixed by a truss rod adjustment (a screw inside the neck that tweaks curvature). If the truss rod is frozen or already maxed out, repairs get costly.

String press test: Press a string at the first fret and then at the last fret over the neck (hold down both). If the space between the string and frets is nearly flat, frets may be high or the neck may be twisted. A small gap is normal near the middle.

Play test: Buzzing on open strings or at low frets can mean a high fret. Buzz that follows one string across multiple frets often means nut or saddle trouble. Buzz that shows up only at one fret is likely a high fret.

Fret wear and ends: Heavy wear looks like grooves in fret tops. Deep grooves can make notes choke or go sharp. Sharp or poking fret ends mean poor care or a previous rough repair.

A simple micro-moment to try in person

You meet the seller at a quiet spot or your shop. Tune the guitar. Play an E, then press the same string at the 12th fret and listen for a clear octave. If the octave is flat or choked, neck relief or fret wear could be the cause. Ask the seller if any technician has worked on the neck.

Red flags vs negotiable fixes

Low-cost fixes: a truss rod tweak, saddle repositioning, fret dressing (leveling small high spots), and a new nut are all routine and affordable.

Bigger problems: a twisted neck, a cracked neck or severely recessed frets typically need major work or replacement. These are real costs to factor in.

Bottom-line checklist before you buy

Confirm the neck looks straight from several angles. Play all strings at multiple frets and listen for buzzing. Check for fret wear and sharp ends with your finger. Ask if the truss rod works and when it was last serviced. Factor repair costs into your offer.

One slow pass across every fret can save you from a repair bill that kills the deal.

Today’s takeaway: If the neck checks pass with simple tests, you can score a solid used guitar; if multiple red flags appear, walk away or lower your offer to cover repairs.