How to spot neck and fret problems on a used guitar

Think the guitar looks fine at a glance? Many neck and fret issues hide until you play.

What’s going on

Necks bend, frets wear, and small problems turn into hard-to-fix headaches. Sellers sometimes don’t know what to look for. You can avoid surprise repair bills by testing a few things yourself.

Why it matters

A warped neck or uneven frets changes how the guitar plays. It can buzz, choke notes, or feel uncomfortable. That can cut the fun and add repair costs that outpace the purchase price.

What to check before you buy

Here are the quick checks to do in person. Take a simple approach and don’t rush.

• Sight down the neck from the headstock to the body to spot twists or big dips.

• Hold the low E string at the first and last fret to see how much gap sits over the 8th–10th frets (strings should hover a small amount, not slam into frets).

• Press each string at every fret across the neck to listen for buzzing or dead spots.

• Check fret wear: deep grooves under each string mean heavy use and possible refret soon.

• Try bending a note on each string to see if intonation shifts or notes choke out.

• Play chords at the nut end and near the body to compare action and buzzing.

• Look at the neck joint and heel for cracks or loose glue; wiggle the neck gently if it’s a bolt-on.

How to interpret what you find

Sight lines: a straight line or a gentle forward bow is normal. A big sideways twist or an S-shape is trouble. A forward bow often means the truss rod (a metal rod that straightens the neck) is doing its job poorly. Sideways twists usually need a luthier.

Action and gap: high action (strings far from frets) makes playing hard. Very low action with buzzing often means worn frets or a warped neck. If the string slams into a fret when you hold the first and last fret, the neck probably has too much relief (forward curve) or the nut or saddle is wrong.

Fret wear: light flattening is normal. Deep furrows, sharp ledges at fret ends, or flat spots where notes die point to heavy wear. That often needs a fret dress (leveling) or a refret, which can be pricey.

Micro-moment: You meet a seller at a cafe and bring the guitar case. You open it, tune quickly, and run the sight-down check. If you spot a clear twist or deep groove under the D string, step back and ask about repairs. That quick look saves you time and money later.

Red flags that should make you walk away

If the neck is visibly warped side-to-side, or if more than two strings buzz badly after basic setup, consider it a red flag. If the truss rod is locked or you can’t adjust it with a simple wrench, the guitar may need shop work. Loose frets, cracked heel joints, or large gaps where the neck meets the body usually mean a repair bill that kills the deal.

Quick negotiation levers if you still want it

If the problem seems fixable, use these points when you talk price: the cost of a fret dress or refret, a truss rod service, or a neck reset. Ask the seller if they can lower the price to cover a professional setup. If they own the guitar long-term, they may be open to splitting estimates or taking it off-market until fixed.

Bottom line

Your checks should take 10–15 minutes. Look down the neck, play every fret, inspect fret wear, and test the truss rod gently. If you find major warping or worn frets, factor a repair into the price or move on.

If it won’t stay in tune through a short play test, assume there’s a reason and negotiate from that risk.

Today’s takeaway: Spend ten minutes checking neck straightness and fret wear — it often saves you a larger repair bill later.