How to check an iPhone’s IMEI and blacklist status before you buy in Canada
- a few seconds ago
- 3 min read
Question: Is the phone really clean?

You meet a seller with a shiny iPhone and a low price. You feel the urge to buy fast. That can cost you if the phone is blacklisted or locked.
Myth: If the screen and serial look good, the phone is fine
Many people assume that **physical condition equals legal status**. A tidy screen and correct-looking serial stickers can fool you.
**Reality:** Physical checks are only the start. You must **check the IMEI or serial with reliable tools** to see blacklist and carrier lock info. The IMEI is the phone's ID number. A clean-looking phone can still be reported lost, stolen, or bound to another carrier.
Myth: The seller can just show a passcode screen and that proves everything
Some sellers think showing the home screen or a working app proves the phone is clear. That is a common trick.
**Reality:** A working phone does not mean it is not blacklisted. **Blacklists affect cellular service**, not the basic device functions. The phone may work on Wi‑Fi and appear fine until you insert your SIM. Always verify IMEI status before you hand over money.
Myth: Any IMEI checker is as good as another
You might hear that quick free checks are enough. Many people trust the first site they find.
**Reality:** Tools vary. **Use a reputable checker that shows blacklist, carrier, and country info**. Some free tools give only partial answers. Pay-for reports or services used by shops give a fuller picture. If the checker is unclear, ask the seller for a receipt or original proof of purchase.
Myth: If the phone accepts your SIM, it's not blacklisted
You might test by putting your SIM in and getting bars. That seems convincing at first glance.
**Reality:** A temporary connection does not guarantee a clean history. **Blacklist status can change or be region-specific**. Also, some carriers allow roaming or limited service for blacklisted devices. Confirm the IMEI status with a checker that lists blacklist history and the current block state.
Myth: You can spot a fake IMEI by eye
Sellers sometimes give you the IMEI printed on a box or told aloud. It feels secure to copy it down.
**Reality:** IMEI can be tampered with or copied from another phone. **Always view the IMEI from the phone itself**: dial the IMEI code or check inside settings. Then run that IMEI through a solid checker before you pay.
Fast micro-moment: You meet a seller in a mall parking lot who insists the phone is fine and lets you test apps. You pop in your SIM and get a text. You think it's safe and are about to pay. Instead, you ask for the IMEI, run a quick check on your phone, and see a reported loss note. You walk away and the seller looks surprised.
Fast check before you pay
Ask for the IMEI shown in the phone settings and compare it to any box or receipt
Dial the IMEI code on the phone to confirm it matches the settings entry
Use a reputable IMEI/blacklist checker to view blacklist and carrier lock status
Ask the seller for proof of purchase if the checker shows unclear or flagged history
Meet in a safe, public place and test with your own SIM if possible
If you buy from a shop, get a written receipt that lists IMEI and return terms
If the deal feels rushed or the seller avoids IMEI checks, walk away
A clean reset and a quick port check can be the difference between "easy money" and "not worth it."
Today’s takeaway: Always verify the phone's IMEI and blacklist status before you pay, even if the phone looks perfect.














